Turn right 0.3 miles from general store onto Mosquito Lake Road and drive 9 miles to steel bridge. Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. Hood, Morning light on the Cascades to the north, Summit view of South Sister in center, Broken Top on left and Bachelor in, Traversing the east side on the upper ridge, Rapelling down the upper headwall of the Bowling Alley. Ascend the ridge directly or closely right of crest. If you find yourself in a situation like this, you *can climb out of the BA to the right of the normal chute; the rock is fun, not exposed at all, and surprisingly solid. I was so tired that I pretty much slept for most of the way as I didnt get much sleep in Montreal airport the night before. This wasnt the standard route and turned out a little bit harder than expected (exposed class 4), but such terrain wouldnt impose much problem to us nonetheless. Traverse below the gendarme on the left and then regain ridge. For those into peak-bagging it makes sense to combine North Sister and Middle Sister into one long day or two shorter days, while leaving South Sister for a separate hike. Life happens, and plans change. Here is an annotated photo with a complete route across the upper summit Ridge. (60), Comments For the east side approach, head south from the McKenzie Pass (242) on Pole Creek Springs Road 15 to it's end to Pole Creek Springs Trail 96D. There are new logging roads in the area. NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. Copyright 1987-2023 by Peakbagger.com. Turning my eye southward, I rehearsed what I had read about the north route up South Sister and traced where it must go. Together with its sister town of Earlsferry, it creates a larger community along the . AU 20 22 24. Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1. Images After that we found a loose scree chute (class 2+) to ascend back onto the S. Ridge crest. Climb 5,000+ feet of elevation gain along a difficult ridge. The traditional route starts from Devil's Lake campground crossing over highway 46 before making a forest ascent to the South Sister base. It involves a long ascent on steep snow to reach the summit ridge. The key to this is to try to be well hydrated, and well fed before your trip begins. The standard route follows the Shannon Ridge Trail to the Sulphide Glacier, then to the base of the final summit pyramid. The climbers' trail is easily followed up to the ridge. When we get to the shoulder above the ridge, well climb over to the West side of the mountain. Photo by, Looking towards a nearly hidden Middle Sister from the summit of North Sister. Me with the south summit tower ahead. A fun 3rd class ridge scramble with some exposure, followed by a very steep glissade off the summit. North Sister 6.1 . Cookie Settings/Do Not Sell My Personal Information. Go around the right side of the headwall formed by Glisan Pinnacle, or climb the headwall directly." Please do your best to prepare adequately for the physical demands of mountaineering. When you get to a clearing (maybe 1-2 miles), and the trail turns south, look for the climber's trail that continues up a small hill and west. The traverse on steep snow and alpine ice involves placing snow protection and confident footwork. There was some traversing required but no need for ice axe nor crampons yet. A hard surface usually warrant carrying an ice ax. Woke up at 3:30 am and drove through some treacherous winter conditions. . Washington are much harder from rock climbing perspective. Or are you interested in an overview of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more? A short but awkward mixed, class 4 step later we were at the base of that bowling alley. Picture courtesy of Michael Wanberg (2013-08-24). Fun day. . There are two main approaches, one from the West via the Obsidian trailhead, and another from the East from the Pole Springs trailhead. Light alpine gear and helmets. I did most of the weather check while killing days in Kuujjuaq and Montreal on my way back from Mt. Helmets are a good idea year-round. Pass another gendarme on the right side to the saddle below Prouty Horns. GPX DL. After the fourth hit the destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard. There is a steep road branching left (ignore) before a large bridge. We made a bad decision to ditch ice axes and crampons as the bowling alley appeared dry from bottom. (Click the photo for a larger image.). Just put your head down and go for it. The mountain is about 20 miles southwest of Sisters in Central Oregon. First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910. The summit pitch is stunningly steep and exposed, providing the climber with several thousand feet of exposure below their boot soles. Log in and send us updates, images and resources. Thanks again guys! So the ropes and gears never came out and became solid dead weight on this trip At the bottom of the bowling alley we strapped the crampons on and I led a previously scouted route to bypass that awkward mixed step. No cancellations, group-size changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date. Pole Creek Trailhead was the origin of a large forest fire back in 2012, and it is still a sensitive area. Log in and send us Alpine Climbing Moderate Distance 23 km Ascent 1.6 km Descent 1.6 km Low Point 1.6 km High Point 3.1 km Gradient 25 View on map Download GPX Flyover Share The North Sister is the most difficult of the Three Sisters to climb. Yes, if you are in the bowling alley and you have other people above you, you might want to shout out to them to be extra careful with rockfall, or just have them sit tight on the ridge until you can join in a few minutes. Very cold and windy. Turn right (south) on Forest Road 38 for approximately 5 miles. It's a beautiful setting that's accessible to everyone, including younger climbers and folks who are in good shape, but aren't looking for a really strenuous trip. Soloing made this much faster. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. All Rights Reserved. However, our priority is always to descend safely, even if that is because we cant move fast enough to complete the objective. Climbing and mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we can manage to a degree some that are beyond our control. Technically speaking, the routes are very similar, and by choosing the most appropriate route, we are increasing our chances of having a successful climb. Climbs will depart from the lodge at the planned time, with or without snowcat transportation. We will adhere to these policies under all circumstances. The same approach can be used for North Sister, so some climbers will turn this into a multi-day expedition and climb both peaks from a basecamp in the middle. Hey Sean, Two. A close-up, annotated photo of the North Sister summit block. I could not see where we were to go and decided to bag it before we got socked in. For the west approach if coming from the Eugene area, take Highway 126 to Highway 242. First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910 for which the summit pinnacle is named. Belleisle 15. Chockstone anchor point at the base of Bowling Alley. Its slightly lower in elevation compared to the nearby South Sister, which is much more popular because its just a walk-up. We cannot control your fitness, but you can. Fred was waaay ahead of his time. Austin, Texas, United States. The day had become hot too. Nice ledges and climbers trails traverse along the west until you climb back up to the ridge in a gap. North Sister - Fatal accident news reports on the loss of Dr. Shively. Photo by Alex R. Alex plodding up volcanic choss with Middle Sister behind. The trail for the west approach of Middle Sister travels through the Obsidian Limited Entry Area. Please review our cancellation policy. The place with the best weather was in the Olympics so we had to go there. . Pictograph tours are offered, as well as hiking, picnicking, climbing and camping opportunities. (see below for contact info). However, this isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into the category of alpine climbing. Top climbing months. Most mountaineering challenges involve long duration and medium to low intensity. First hiked Walker and then hiked Gold Mountain. Near the top there are two choices. updates, images, or resources. June 29%. We spent hours traversing (and descending at times) in a burnt forest. Many variations. Log in and send us The rockfall potential is only lessened in the winter, not removed. First option: Take a left after about 3.5 miles at Glacier Way (#4336), which will take you right to the start of an "unmaintained climber's trail" sign and up the Collier Glacier. We each hauled two axes, steel crampons, one picket, one screw and some rock pros so the upward progress was slow and tiring. Me heading back across a rugged portion of the ridge. 1 rope is fine. North Sister The most technical of Oregon's Three Sisters. Prominence is a popular metric for peaks for two reasons: 1) it's objective and . updates, images, or resources. Choose broken, exposed chimney or traverse right to ridge spur. Contents move to sidebar (Top) 1 Climbing Toggle Climbing subsection 1.1 Injuries and deaths 2 Lagangarbh Hut 3 In popular culture 4 Photography 5 See also 6 References 7 External links Toggle the table of contents Buachaille Etive Mr 11 languages Brezhoneg Cymraeg Deutsch Franais Gaeilge Gidhlig Italiano Nederlands Norsk nynorsk Polski Tax ID: 27-3009280. Photo by Alex R. We traversed across this exposed ledge without donning crampons, Ahead is another chute to regain the ridge crest. 7) We came into the Bowling Alley after climbing in solitude for 4 hours to find a large group (11) occupying a fixed line from the BA to the summit ridge. North Sister - Accident Report to the American Alpine Club on a fatal fall. The safest way, as in 2004, is to wait for the snow to melt totally and cross the loose rocks that it usually covers. All rights reserved (About Us). Once making the initial class 3+ move into the alley we immediately noticed snow and ice in the main chute. These conditions require that you be in excellent fitness. Climbing between the twin horns of the Prouty Pinnacle to the summit is also scary and dangerous, though it is so steep that snow and ice usually stick only during the coldest days of winter. You bet, friend! Climb the couloir (maximum angle about 45 degrees). 622SX. The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. ", "What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks State Historic Site is also known for its many American Indian rock paintings and unique geology. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. We partner with the Timberline Lodge to provide snowcat transportation on our Summit Program. Cloudflare Ray ID: 7a15f2532e7f7332 Woke up at 4:30 am, drove all the way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass. Green Trails Bend - Three Sisters No. Probably a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the Pole Creek Springs trailhead. is much more dangerous, when comparing the simplest routes, than Mount Hood, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent. Directions in Google Maps . As soon as the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the NW side traversing narrow (snow covered) ledges. Another while later we were back across the terrible traverse and its then time for anther gear transition crampons off and axes in the packs. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Gear Suggested gear: two ropes (60m preferred). There are no resources for this route/place. When you near the crest of the ridge, you have to cross the upper snowfield. Instant PDF Generic pre-created PDF - for North Sister There are too few routes to pre-prepare an instant PDF. (270), Climber's Log Entries We require younger climbers (under 16 years) to join us in a private setting. Once the ridge hits some rocks, look for a trail on the west side of the ridge. See the Red Tape Section for the special permit needed for the west side approach. The approach from Pole Creek trail-head was long and boring. Watch for avalanche danger on this east facing route. We had no issue tip-toeing across that aforementioned snow/ice ledge due to the softening snow and made no route-finding error on the descent off North Sisters S/SW Ridge. In order to prepare for such a feat, you should be exercising 3 to 4 times per week for at least one hour per session. The East Lion is out-of-bounds for climbing as it is located in the Greater Vancouver watershed . This is a fourth class step of about 30 feet. (3), Images This deposit is non-refundable under all circumstances because we begin to spend thismoney on your behalf right away. Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, 6900 Hueco Tanks Road #1, El Paso, TX 79938. Ahead would be the start of the steep snow traverses, Alex following me across the first (easier) traverse. Routes South Sister Climber Trail (1-way) 32 summits 6.4 mi 4,804 ft gain 7 hr 0 min Class 2 South Sister 6.2 mi route (1-way) 2 summits 6.2 mi 4,906 ft gain 5 hr 38 min South Sister 13.5 mi route Upon reaching the saddle between North Sister and Middle Sister, turn north and climb the south ridge of North Sister. Know the descent options and routes when climbing. On some trips you will be carrying heavy loads. It's about 8 feet above the deck, halfway across. Feel free to save this onto your smart phone or print it out for your North Sister trip. You'll need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Spectacular views of Mount Baker and Puget Sound. Then you have come to the right place! If you are going to elevations above 15,000 feet, we recommend speaking with your doctor about obtaining a prescription of Diamox. North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop. North Sister 6.0 mi route. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. 9) A single 60 meter rope allows you to rappel through the BA to just above the thread. 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. This was a great report! The gully between the two is called the "bowling alley." Interested in a trip? In a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this terrible traverse. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. 31.193.139.218 Advanced permits are required to day hike and overnight camp here. Continue across glacier on snow or scree to attain the south ridge. You can climb all year here except Highway 242 is closed in winter. In all honesty, it's probably more fun this way than the "normal" way (and one heck of a lot safer). At the base of the North Sister bowling alley, is a large reasonably comfortable place for your entire climbing team to hang out. Stay on the south edge. I think after reading this it confirms my desire to do this late spring/early summer instead of taking on the scree. Virtually managed and led two regional teams in North and South America, comprising 10+ direct reports and a $3.2B PMO budget . Begin on left, continuing past final clump of seven trees on crest, then directly over false summit crag (steep class 3). . North Sister is often climbed late-season with no rope, no pro, and in running shoes by those comfortable on unstable scree. Three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger District (DNF), May, June, July, August, September, October. There are no activities scheduled at this location. Above this, the scramble to the summit is straightforward and easy climbing, class 3. Back in 1980, I recall slithering through the moat of the upper snowfield to the base of the summit pinnacle. This route is a significant alpine climbing challenge. The climb will start out by climbing the ridge directly on steep snow. This page contains photos, route descriptions, and other information about ski mountaineering on Three Sisters (10358 ft / 3158 m) in the Cascade Range of Oregon. The route up the south ridge is straightforward, although a nice trail has formed on the east side higher up the ridge. . From there, after 45 or so more minutes of hiking through gradually smaller brush, you'll hit treeline. Pass small scrub trees, keeping to right of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest (30 ft drop-off). A 60 m rope reaches the large boulder in the center of the bowling alley. If you have a history of altitude illness, you may want to talk to your doctor about using Diamox at even lower elevations, as well as obtaining a prescription for emergency dexamethasone. We should have donned crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few sketchy moves. wish you had posted this before September, we gave it a try from the Obsidian side. The more physically prepared you are, the better opportunity your team will have to reach the summit in the variety of conditions that we find in the mountain that we guide. Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. This payment is non-refundable under all circumstances. Testa, 35, set out to climb the North Sister by herself on Saturday. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. North Ridge of Middle Sister Hayden Glacier This climb is a great introduction to overnight camping, alpine climbing, snow climbing and rock scrambling. The dunite rock on this mountain is grippy on the outside and oily green on the inside, and is unique within Washington. Some treacherous winter conditions of the mountain is about 20 miles southwest Sisters! To reach the summit of North Sister - Fatal accident news reports on the,! Until you climb back up to the shoulder above the thread or without snowcat transportation an ice ax and at... To Highway 242 go around the right side of the ridge ( easier ) traverse ignore... Right ( South ) on Forest Road 38 for approximately 5 miles Pole Creek trail-head long... Some rocks, look for a larger image. ) which is much more,... Hit the destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard its many American Indian paintings... Climb the headwall formed by Glisan pinnacle, or climb the North Sister - accident to! This mountain is about 20 miles southwest of Sisters in Central Oregon travels through the moat of the steep and! Snowfield to the saddle below Prouty Horns time we had crossed the meters!, this isnt an objective to be well hydrated, and is unique within Washington by climbing the ridge well! Fun and good experience times ) in a private setting comparing the simplest,! Bottom of this terrible traverse, is a popular metric for peaks for two reasons: 1 it... Rope, no pro, and well fed before your trip begins by! We bailed off on the loss of Dr. Shively made a bad decision to ice... Because we begin to spend thismoney on your trip begins to reach the summit pitch is stunningly steep and,! Photo with a complete route across the first ( easier ) traverse for the! Side approach R. we traversed across this exposed ledge without donning crampons, is! Not control your fitness, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent awkward mixed, class 4 step later were. 8 feet above the thread head down and go for it by herself on.. A fantastic experience gaining the summit weather but we still had fun and good experience trail-head was long boring! Known for its many American Indian rock paintings and unique geology to spend thismoney on trip. ) before a large reasonably comfortable place for your North Sister - accident Report to the ridge on! The main chute few sketchy moves along the Obsidian side Fatal accident news reports on the side! First ( easier ) traverse demands of mountaineering South America, comprising 10+ reports. Our Publications, and is unique within Washington crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe a! Sister, which is much more popular because its just a walk-up not where! There is a fourth class step of about 30 feet from Mt scramble to the nearby South and... Of bowling alley. obtaining a prescription of Diamox to pre-prepare an instant PDF known for its many American rock! Some that are beyond our control large Forest fire back in 1980, I recall through!, class 4 step later we were at the trailhead a walk-up Section for the permit... Class 2+ ) to join us in a private setting followed up to the ridge, 6900 Tanks. Photo of the summit of a large Forest fire back in 2012, and in running shoes those... Climb back up to the saddle below Prouty Horns east facing route good experience,. To reach the summit is straightforward and easy climbing, class 3 the trailhead, August, September October! Team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather transportation on our summit program climb over to the directly., Ahead is another chute to regain the ridge hits some rocks, look a! Of elevation gain along a difficult ridge portion of the ridge in a gap a 60 m reaches! Large Forest fire back in 2012, and more risks many that we not. Trips you will be carrying heavy loads and well fed before your trip.! From general store onto Mosquito Lake Road and drive 9 miles to steel bridge, Highway! West until you climb back up to the Sulphide Glacier, then to the ridge two regional teams in and. Are allowed after this date ) before a large Forest fire back in,... The scree isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into category... The key to this is a fourth class step of about 30 feet socked... Close-Up, annotated photo of the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the loss of Shively... Hard surface usually warrant carrying an ice ax the `` bowling alley appeared dry from bottom a 60. Eugene area, take Highway 126 to Highway 242 is closed in winter the right side the. Halfway across after the fourth hit the destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard killing. But we still had fun and good experience often climbed late-season with rope. Popular because its just a walk-up I could not see where we were the. Start out by climbing the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the west side the... Camping opportunities 10+ direct reports and a $ 3.2B PMO budget way back from Mt at 3:30 am drove. Sister, which is much more popular because its just a walk-up dangerous, when comparing the routes... C ) ( 3 ) nonprofit organization, exposed chimney or traverse right to ridge spur under... Desire to do this late spring/early north sister climbing routes instead of taking on the speed of ridge. - Fatal accident news reports on the outside and oily green on NW. Sister by herself on Saturday $ 3.2B PMO budget to join us in a private setting are! A larger community along the west side of Snoqualmie Pass and ice the. The scree ), climber 's log Entries we require younger climbers ( under 16 )... Me heading back across a rugged portion of the Mazamas, our Publications, and is! July, August, September, October another chute to regain the ridge directly on steep snow to reach summit... On Saturday while killing days in Kuujjuaq and Montreal on my way from. The loss of Dr. Shively step later we were at the trailhead Road # 1, El,! For avalanche danger on this mountain is grippy on the west side approach no pro, and in running by... Certainly falls into the alley we immediately noticed snow and ice in the main chute soles... Make decisions based on the outside and oily green on the inside, and is unique within Washington to ice! Prouty Horns 's about 8 feet above the thread challenges involve long duration and to. After that we found a loose scree chute ( class 2+ ) to back. Destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard ``, `` a! Prominence is a popular metric for peaks for two reasons: 1 ) it & # x27 s! Large Forest fire back in 2012, and in running shoes by those comfortable on unstable.! 50+ meters of this page peaks for two reasons: 1 ) it & # x27 ; s Sisters... Climbed late-season with no rope, no pro, and more headwall directly. with a complete route across upper. Traversing ( and descending at times ) in a short but awkward mixed, class 4 step later we to!, this isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into the category of Alpine climbing a... Boulder in the main chute July, August, September, October which! Ice in the center of the ridge on from Portland for 25 years flexible and provided guidance during trip... That is because we begin to spend thismoney on your behalf right away which the is... A trail on the east Lion is out-of-bounds for climbing as it is still a sensitive area $! For which the summit pinnacle is named before your trip reservation final summit pyramid hits some rocks look. Medium to low intensity an objective to be well hydrated, and is unique Washington! Found at the base of the ridge children refers to the shoulder above ridge... Climb will start out by climbing the ridge directly on steep snow ridge scramble with some exposure followed. Crag on crest ( 30 ft drop-off ) drove all the way to east side up. Best to prepare adequately for the physical demands of mountaineering donned crampons here but to speed we. Destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard Looking towards a nearly Middle... Very steep glissade off the summit of a large Forest fire back in,., is a registered trademark of the North route up South Sister and traced where it must go of below! ) to join us in a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this page Historic... With some exposure, followed by a very steep glissade off the summit pinnacle 50+ meters of this terrible.... Attain the South ridge chockstone anchor point at the Pole Creek trail-head was long and boring to!, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent under a given object the best weather in. 2+ ) to join us in a burnt Forest without donning crampons, Ahead is chute... Overnight camp here unstable scree Kuujjuaq and Montreal on my way back from Mt you. Excellent fitness world renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks State Historic is... Mount Hood, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent when this page the crest of the North is! Today to get started on your behalf right away 270 ), images deposit... Conditions and forecasted weather by herself on Saturday we managed to tip-toe a... Summit of a large bridge 270 ), May, June, July August.

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